Oblique long waves on beach and induced longshore current

Abstract

This study considers the 3D runup of long waves on a uniform beach of constant or variable downward slope that is connected to an open ocean of uniform depth. An inviscid linear long-wave theory is applied to obtain the fundamental solution for a uniform train of sinusoidal waves obliquely incident upon a uniform beach of variable downward slope without wave breaking. For waves at nearly grazing incidence, runup is significant only for the waves in a set of eigenmodes being trapped within the beach at resonance with the exterior ocean waves. Fourier synthesis is employed to analyze a solitary wave and a train of cnoidal waves obliquely incident upon a sloping beach, with the nonlinear and dispersive effects neglected at this stage. Comparison is made between the present theory and the ray theory to ascertain a criterion of validity. The wave-induced longshore current is evaluated by finding the Stokes drift of the fluid particles carried by the momentum of the waves obliquely incident upon a sloping beach. Currents of significant velocities are produced by waves at incidence angels about 45°and by grazing waves trapped on the beach. Also explored are the effects of the variable downward slope and curvature of a uniform beach on 3D runup and reflection of long waves. | This study considers the 3D runup of long waves on a uniform beach of constant or variable downward slope that is connected to an open ocean of uniform depth. An inviscid linear long-wave theory is applied to obtain the fundamental solution for a uniform train of sinusoidal waves obliquely incident upon a uniform beach of variable downward slope without wave breaking. For waves at nearly grazing incidence, runup is significant only for the waves in a set of eigenmodes being trapped within the beach at resonance with the exterior ocean waves. Fourier synthesis is employed to analyze a solitary wave and a train of cnoidal waves obliquely incident upon a sloping beach, with the nonlinear and dispersive effects neglected at this stage. Comparison is made between the present theory and the ray theory to ascertain a criterion of validity. The wave-induced longshore current is evaluated by finding the Stokes drift of the fluid particles carried by the momentum of the waves obliquely incident upon a sloping beach. Currents of significant velocities are produced by waves at incidence angels about 45° and by grazing waves trapped on the beach. Also explored are the effects of the variable downward slope and curvature of a uniform beach on 3D runup and reflection of long waves.