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Article: Theoretical and experimental study of particle trajectories for nonlinear water waves propagating on a sloping bottom

TitleTheoretical and experimental study of particle trajectories for nonlinear water waves propagating on a sloping bottom
Authors
KeywordsLagrangian
Particle Trajectory
Sloping Bottom
Wave Breaking
Wave Velocity Relation
Issue Date2012
PublisherThe Royal Society. The Journal's web site is located at http://rsta.royalsocietypublishing.org
Citation
Philosophical Transactions Of The Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical And Engineering Sciences, 2012, v. 370 n. 1964, p. 1543-1571 How to Cite?
AbstractA third-order asymptotic solution in Lagrangian description for nonlinear water waves propagating over a sloping beach is derived. The particle trajectories are obtained as a function of the nonlinear ordering parameter 3 and the bottom slope a to the third order of perturbation. A new relationship between the wave velocity and the motions of particles at the free surface profile in the waves propagating on the sloping bottom is also determined directly in the complete Lagrangian framework. This solution enables the description of wave shoaling in the direction of wave propagation from deep to shallow water, as well as the successive deformation of wave profiles and water particle trajectories prior to breaking. A series of experiments are conducted to investigate the particle trajectories of nonlinear water waves propagating over a sloping bottom. It is shown that the present third-order asymptotic solution agrees very well with the experiments. © 2012 The Royal Society.
Persistent Identifierhttp://hdl.handle.net/10722/157179
ISSN
2015 Impact Factor: 2.441
2015 SCImago Journal Rankings: 0.800
ISI Accession Number ID
Funding AgencyGrant Number
Research Grant Council of the National Science Center, TaiwanNSC99-2923-E-110-001-MY3
NSC99-2221-E-110 -087-MY3
Funding Information:

Dr K. S. Hwang is appreciated for his laboratory assistance. The work was supported by the Research Grant Council of the National Science Center, Taiwan, through project no. NSC99-2923-E-110-001-MY3 and no. NSC99-2221-E-110 -087-MY3.

References

 

DC FieldValueLanguage
dc.contributor.authorChen, YYen_US
dc.contributor.authorLi, MSen_US
dc.contributor.authorHsu, HCen_US
dc.contributor.authorNg, COen_US
dc.date.accessioned2012-08-08T08:45:40Z-
dc.date.available2012-08-08T08:45:40Z-
dc.date.issued2012en_US
dc.identifier.citationPhilosophical Transactions Of The Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical And Engineering Sciences, 2012, v. 370 n. 1964, p. 1543-1571en_US
dc.identifier.issn1364-503Xen_US
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10722/157179-
dc.description.abstractA third-order asymptotic solution in Lagrangian description for nonlinear water waves propagating over a sloping beach is derived. The particle trajectories are obtained as a function of the nonlinear ordering parameter 3 and the bottom slope a to the third order of perturbation. A new relationship between the wave velocity and the motions of particles at the free surface profile in the waves propagating on the sloping bottom is also determined directly in the complete Lagrangian framework. This solution enables the description of wave shoaling in the direction of wave propagation from deep to shallow water, as well as the successive deformation of wave profiles and water particle trajectories prior to breaking. A series of experiments are conducted to investigate the particle trajectories of nonlinear water waves propagating over a sloping bottom. It is shown that the present third-order asymptotic solution agrees very well with the experiments. © 2012 The Royal Society.en_US
dc.languageengen_US
dc.publisherThe Royal Society. The Journal's web site is located at http://rsta.royalsocietypublishing.orgen_US
dc.relation.ispartofPhilosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciencesen_US
dc.subjectLagrangianen_US
dc.subjectParticle Trajectoryen_US
dc.subjectSloping Bottomen_US
dc.subjectWave Breakingen_US
dc.subjectWave Velocity Relationen_US
dc.titleTheoretical and experimental study of particle trajectories for nonlinear water waves propagating on a sloping bottomen_US
dc.typeArticleen_US
dc.identifier.emailNg, CO:cong@hku.hken_US
dc.identifier.authorityNg, CO=rp00224en_US
dc.description.naturelink_to_subscribed_fulltexten_US
dc.identifier.doi10.1098/rsta.2011.0446en_US
dc.identifier.pmid22393108-
dc.identifier.scopuseid_2-s2.0-84863229744-
dc.identifier.hkuros199015-
dc.relation.referenceshttp://www.scopus.com/mlt/select.url?eid=2-s2.0-84858266197&selection=ref&src=s&origin=recordpageen_US
dc.identifier.volume370en_US
dc.identifier.issue1964en_US
dc.identifier.spage1543en_US
dc.identifier.epage1571en_US
dc.identifier.eissn1471-2962-
dc.identifier.isiWOS:000301182900003-
dc.publisher.placeUnited Kingdomen_US
dc.identifier.scopusauthoridChen, YY=55089878000en_US
dc.identifier.scopusauthoridLi, MS=55088942400en_US
dc.identifier.scopusauthoridHsu, HC=7402359665en_US
dc.identifier.scopusauthoridNg, CO=7401705594en_US
dc.identifier.citeulike10431066-

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