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Article: Oblique long waves on beach and induced longshore current

TitleOblique long waves on beach and induced longshore current
Authors
Issue Date1999
PublisherAmerican Society of Civil Engineers. The Journal's web site is located at http://www.pubs.asce.org/journals/em.html
Citation
Journal Of Engineering Mechanics, 1999, v. 125 n. 7, p. 812-826 How to Cite?
AbstractThis study considers the 3D runup of long waves on a uniform beach of constant or variable downward slope that is connected to an open ocean of uniform depth. An inviscid linear long-wave theory is applied to obtain the fundamental solution for a uniform train of sinusoidal waves obliquely incident upon a uniform beach of variable downward slope without wave breaking. For waves at nearly grazing incidence, runup is significant only for the waves in a set of eigenmodes being trapped within the beach at resonance with the exterior ocean waves. Fourier synthesis is employed to analyze a solitary wave and a train of cnoidal waves obliquely incident upon a sloping beach, with the nonlinear and dispersive effects neglected at this stage. Comparison is made between the present theory and the ray theory to ascertain a criterion of validity. The wave-induced longshore current is evaluated by finding the Stokes drift of the fluid particles carried by the momentum of the waves obliquely incident upon a sloping beach. Currents of significant velocities are produced by waves at incidence angels about 45°and by grazing waves trapped on the beach. Also explored are the effects of the variable downward slope and curvature of a uniform beach on 3D runup and reflection of long waves. | This study considers the 3D runup of long waves on a uniform beach of constant or variable downward slope that is connected to an open ocean of uniform depth. An inviscid linear long-wave theory is applied to obtain the fundamental solution for a uniform train of sinusoidal waves obliquely incident upon a uniform beach of variable downward slope without wave breaking. For waves at nearly grazing incidence, runup is significant only for the waves in a set of eigenmodes being trapped within the beach at resonance with the exterior ocean waves. Fourier synthesis is employed to analyze a solitary wave and a train of cnoidal waves obliquely incident upon a sloping beach, with the nonlinear and dispersive effects neglected at this stage. Comparison is made between the present theory and the ray theory to ascertain a criterion of validity. The wave-induced longshore current is evaluated by finding the Stokes drift of the fluid particles carried by the momentum of the waves obliquely incident upon a sloping beach. Currents of significant velocities are produced by waves at incidence angels about 45° and by grazing waves trapped on the beach. Also explored are the effects of the variable downward slope and curvature of a uniform beach on 3D runup and reflection of long waves.
Persistent Identifierhttp://hdl.handle.net/10722/177680
ISSN
2015 Impact Factor: 1.346
2015 SCImago Journal Rankings: 0.747
ISI Accession Number ID
References

 

DC FieldValueLanguage
dc.contributor.authorZhang, JEen_US
dc.contributor.authorWu, TYen_US
dc.date.accessioned2012-12-19T09:39:31Z-
dc.date.available2012-12-19T09:39:31Z-
dc.date.issued1999en_US
dc.identifier.citationJournal Of Engineering Mechanics, 1999, v. 125 n. 7, p. 812-826en_US
dc.identifier.issn0733-9399en_US
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10722/177680-
dc.description.abstractThis study considers the 3D runup of long waves on a uniform beach of constant or variable downward slope that is connected to an open ocean of uniform depth. An inviscid linear long-wave theory is applied to obtain the fundamental solution for a uniform train of sinusoidal waves obliquely incident upon a uniform beach of variable downward slope without wave breaking. For waves at nearly grazing incidence, runup is significant only for the waves in a set of eigenmodes being trapped within the beach at resonance with the exterior ocean waves. Fourier synthesis is employed to analyze a solitary wave and a train of cnoidal waves obliquely incident upon a sloping beach, with the nonlinear and dispersive effects neglected at this stage. Comparison is made between the present theory and the ray theory to ascertain a criterion of validity. The wave-induced longshore current is evaluated by finding the Stokes drift of the fluid particles carried by the momentum of the waves obliquely incident upon a sloping beach. Currents of significant velocities are produced by waves at incidence angels about 45°and by grazing waves trapped on the beach. Also explored are the effects of the variable downward slope and curvature of a uniform beach on 3D runup and reflection of long waves. | This study considers the 3D runup of long waves on a uniform beach of constant or variable downward slope that is connected to an open ocean of uniform depth. An inviscid linear long-wave theory is applied to obtain the fundamental solution for a uniform train of sinusoidal waves obliquely incident upon a uniform beach of variable downward slope without wave breaking. For waves at nearly grazing incidence, runup is significant only for the waves in a set of eigenmodes being trapped within the beach at resonance with the exterior ocean waves. Fourier synthesis is employed to analyze a solitary wave and a train of cnoidal waves obliquely incident upon a sloping beach, with the nonlinear and dispersive effects neglected at this stage. Comparison is made between the present theory and the ray theory to ascertain a criterion of validity. The wave-induced longshore current is evaluated by finding the Stokes drift of the fluid particles carried by the momentum of the waves obliquely incident upon a sloping beach. Currents of significant velocities are produced by waves at incidence angels about 45° and by grazing waves trapped on the beach. Also explored are the effects of the variable downward slope and curvature of a uniform beach on 3D runup and reflection of long waves.en_US
dc.languageengen_US
dc.publisherAmerican Society of Civil Engineers. The Journal's web site is located at http://www.pubs.asce.org/journals/em.htmlen_US
dc.relation.ispartofJournal of Engineering Mechanicsen_US
dc.titleOblique long waves on beach and induced longshore currenten_US
dc.typeArticleen_US
dc.identifier.emailZhang, JE: jinzhang@hku.hken_US
dc.identifier.authorityZhang, JE=rp01125en_US
dc.description.naturelink_to_subscribed_fulltexten_US
dc.identifier.doi10.1061/(ASCE)0733-9399(1999)125:7(812)en_US
dc.identifier.scopuseid_2-s2.0-0032788019en_US
dc.relation.referenceshttp://www.scopus.com/mlt/select.url?eid=2-s2.0-0032788019&selection=ref&src=s&origin=recordpageen_US
dc.identifier.volume125en_US
dc.identifier.issue7en_US
dc.identifier.spage812en_US
dc.identifier.epage826en_US
dc.identifier.isiWOS:000080944200012-
dc.publisher.placeUnited Statesen_US
dc.identifier.scopusauthoridZhang, JE=7601346659en_US
dc.identifier.scopusauthoridWu, TY=7404815163en_US

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